Assignment from July 31: Are you someone who, like the Water Rat,
enjoys nothing better than “messing about in boats”? If so, write us a piece about the pleasures or
problems you’ve experienced with them.
Having always
been the adventurous type, sometimes to my own detriment, I have often bitten
off more than I could chew. One such
case, actually, I did it twice, was a circumnavigation of Manhattan island, 30
miles, 10 hours, in a kayak. We shoved
off one July evening at about 8:00 PM for a nighttime “circumnav.” There were about 20 of us, six people in
individual kayaks, sea kayaks, the kind you sit inside of, and seven tandem, 2
-seater, sit-on-top, very buoyant kayaks.
I was alone in a sit-on-top kayak, with a dry bag filled with an extra
shirt, extra water, 2 sandwiches and a power bar or two. There is a heavy-duty canvas seat clipped
into the kayak to give the paddler an opposite force and to support the
kayaker’s back and butt. In order to
paddle forward a kayaker needs the canvas seat to provide leverage to the
paddle stroke. Otherwise, the paddler
would would move backwards and out of the sit-on-top kayak, and into the drink.
Leaving the
Long Island City Community Boathouse on Anable Basin in Hunter’s Point in Long
Island City, we caught the East River’s flood tide north. The East River is not a true river but a 16-mile
tidal strait, affected by Atlantic Ocean tides that flood and ebb twice a day,
every day. The flood cycle is approximately
5 and ½ hours, with a half hour of slack tide, and then 5 and ½ hours of ebb
tide, flowing south back into New York Harbor.
Let it be known that it is nearly impossible to paddle a kayak against
the full flood or ebb tide. I recommend
that one go down to the river’s edge and watch the boats and ships tryst with
the tide. Ships sailing and motoring
with the tide whisk by rather quickly whereas boats powering against the full
tide are laboring and wasting fuel. The
ship captain would be wise to time his or her trip up or down river with the assistance
of the appropriate tide.
The LICCB was
well-equipped and very safety conscious, as it should be. Paddlers and rowers on the river are mere
specks to the passing DEP tankers, fuel barges, tugboats, party boats, and
privately-owned leisure craft. We were
ordered to stay together in a big pack, more visible to the passing ships and
boats. Our leaders would radio in to harbor
patrol and to report our location to other vessels. We paddled up the East Channel of the East
River, to the east of Roosevelt Island, under the mighty Queensboro Bridge,
past Hallett’s Cove in Astoria, and, after coordinating the plan, to cross the
Hell Gate, a treacherous pinch-point of the East River. The East River, beyond the Hell Gate flows
north and east to beyond Throgs Neck in the Bronx to join the Long Island
Sound. Our course, however, was to cross
the Hell Gate in to enter the 7.5-mile Harlem River.
Now it was
completely dark. The night circumnav was
happening. As with any kayak trip, or
foot hike, or long drive, one’s vigor is high at the start. The flood tide took us calmly into the Harlem
River where we traveled under the many bridges that connect upper Manhattan
with the Borough of the Bronx. The
Triborough (now RFK) lift bridge, the Willis Avenue, Madison Avenue, 145th
Street, Macomb’s Dam, High Bridge, the Alexander Hamilton, 207th
Street, the Broadway, and, finally, the Henry Hudson bridges to get us through
Spuyten Duyvil and into the mighty Hudson River. The Hudson, formerly called North River, is a
true river, starting 310 miles to the north in the Adirondack Mountains. The Hudson is tidal, so it flows south, yet
rises and falls vertically with the pulses of the ocean tides. The water moves
quickly, about 6-7 knots. When kayaking
on the water, it is very hard to judge your speed unless you note certain
landmarks on the shoreline or large structures visible form the water. We exited the Harlem River and “hung a left”
in the Hudson for the tidal ebb to pull us 13 miles down-river.
This entire
trip was super invigorating and enthralling, as we had as one of our
participants, a New York Times
reporter named Robin Shuler. She was in
the front of a tandem kayak, not doing very much paddling but asking many
questions to the participants, and asking me a number of questions, since I was
one of two historians on the trek. After
about three hours of yapping, a trait that I have been “blessed” with, I had
asked Robin if she needed any more info.
She said, quite emphatically, “No!”
I think I may have killed her with my exuberant historical tales and
facts.
We paddled
down-river, under the giant and majestic George Washington Bridge. To give one some perspective, the height of
the bridge from water level is 604 feet, the height of a 60-story
building. From tower to tower is 3,500
feet, over a half-mile. All that
finished in 1931.
We paddled
further, the East and Hudson rivers’ tides, currents, and eddies all at the
ready to unseat you from your vessel.
Although the kayaker is being taken south by the river, provided by the
tide and actual river’s southward flow, the paddler must be very alert to
correct their forward motion from becoming turned sideways, or completely
turned 180 degrees. Going backwards in a
kayak is very unsettling as one must be able to see an obstacle in order to
avoid it. one particular incident of
“On-the-job-training” occurred near the 79th Street Boat Basin on
Manhattan’s west side. About 200 yards
ahead of me, with the dark river below and the dark sky above, I spied a large,
round object coming at me. We were directed
to steer to the right, further into the river, to avoid the obstacle. As we zipped by at 7 knots right by the
half-submerged, four feet in diameter, orange ball, I had an important
realization. The Hudson River’s
fast-moving tide was carrying us past the orange ball, which was stationary. It was the outer boundary marker of the boat
basin. The large floating metal orange
balls were anchored by cables to the river bed.
They were not moving, I was. If I
had been on a direct line with the “moving” orange ball, I would have struck it
and caused myself serious injury. What
astonished me most was that in previous kayak trips, I had never experienced
that situation. One must remember,
respect the sea. It’ll swallow you
whole, I can tell you.
The loose
pack of kayakers became quiet as the trek became 5,6,7 hour long. We had stopped for 5 minutes at a dock on the
Harlem River at Sherman Creek, and at the Downtown Boat Basin just north of
Battery Park City and Stuyvesant High School.
At that stop, a peculiar thing happened.
As the paddlers, now on a wooden dock were stretching their legs and
bodies, using the facilities, and eating something, we knew that the final
three hours would be the toughest. Heck,
I was dead already and, I am glad to say, there were others far more dead than
I was. A U.S. Army term I had learned
was to “Charlie Mike,” continue mission.
A young couple on the trip, sharing a kayak, were having a serious spat. I could hear the woman saying, “How much
further? I can’t do this anymore.” When her and her “boyfriend” heard three more
hours, she got super mad and left the group, and her now poorly motivated beau
to paddle alone. The woman left and
walked toward the nearest subway station to go home, wherever that was. She was so sick of kayaking that she elected
to take her chances, alone, in downtown Manhattan at 3:00 AM. Yikes!
A very experienced kayaker, Erik, elected to jump into the back of the
lonely fellow’s kayak and to tow the empty kayak, for the next three hours.
We shoved off
from the Downtown boathouse, zipping past the former World Trade Center site
(it was 2005), Battery Park City, and towards the Battery. To our right was Ellis and Liberty islands,
with the great statue and her lamp lighting the way to our good and free
America.
South of the
Battery is a spot called, “the Spider,” where the Hudson River, New York
Harbor, Buttermilk Channel, and the East River all influence the water, which
bounces off the sea walls and can, in many variables of water motion, can
unseat one from their boat. It would
have been fun if we weren’t on the water for eight hours! As we finally entered the East River for our
trek northward, the leaders timed it perfectly for us to catch the new flood
tide. Thank God. I was not into paddling at all yet when one paddles
alone in their own kayak, one must drive on.
There was no stopping now. Being
it now a Sunday morning, zero dark thirty, we pressed on. The group of 19 was now silent. Everyone was solely focused on getting back
to Anable Basin in our fair Long Island City.
As we paddled further, we passed under the majestic Brooklyn, Manhattan,
and Williamsburg bridges. It was so
awesome kayaking under these great historic spans, yet my zeal for the moment
had waned back in the Hudson River. As
we followed the flood around Corlear’s Hook in lower Manhattan, a strong turn
in the river, there I saw it. Standing
alone, a few miles in the distance, in a Long Island City of long ago, was the
tall, green Citibank building in Court Square.
A beacon in the night, the word “CITI” atop what was once the tallest
building in Queens, and the tallest building between New York and Boston. Every paddle stroke got us closer. Williamsburg, Greenpoint, Brooklyn. Newtown Creek. Hunter’s Point, Queens. I can actually see buildings in Queens! Oh my God!
We paddled silently past the piers at Gantry Plaza State Park, the Pepsi
Cola sign, and, dare I say it, Anable Basin.
We also raced
to see who could paddle to the dock first.
I, being not dead and a gentleman, stayed in my kayak as we assisted the
beginners onto the dock, and then, it was my turn to exit the restrictive water
craft. I grabbed onto the dock and
essentially flung myself from the kayak onto the dock, like a super fat walrus. I was so, so happy to be on the wooden dock,
terra firma. We all pulled the boats
onto the dock, up the boat ramp, and helped each other carry the kayaks back to
the boathouse, one block away. The
group, slightly less silent, hosed down the canvas seats, paddles, and the
personal floatation devices (PDFs). Salt
water can erode equipment.
The leaders
closed with two minutes of info and upcoming paddles, which nobody cared
about. I want to go home. It was now 6:30 AM. Ten hours on the freakin’ water. My back is tight, my muscles want to atrophy,
where do I get a taxi at this hour? My
45-year-old frame was wracked with fatigue.
I just wanna go home. Put a fork
in me, I am done.
The next
week, I appeared in the New York Times
article, quoted and photographed, and that was the greatest reward for all of
my efforts.
Richard Melnick
Astoria, NY.
8-14-2021.